Natural Hair Review: Lush King of the Mods Gel

Lush King of the Mods

Water (Aqua), Almond Oil (Prunus dulcis), PVP, Grapefruit Oil (Citrus paradisi), Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Propylene Glycol, Lime Oil (Citrus aurantifolia), Camellia Oil (Camellia japonica), Glycerine, *Citral, *Geraniol, *Limonene, *Linalool, Perfume, Methylparaben
* Occurs naturally in Essential Oils

Back again at Lush…

Actually I received this product free after spending 20 pounds on product- (the fluff ease and the stout shampoo which I reviewed earlier) I had such high hopes for Lush products but I think I’m going to have to admit they’re not for me.

What can I say about this gel. It has no real hold, no “gelling” effect, made my hair fuzzy and greasy. Conditioned a little and smelled great but in the end left me feeling like -What’s the point?

3/10




Let me introduce myself…

I was born in London, Ontario, Canada, a product of a interracial relationship. My mother, from Ireland had smoke during her pregnancy- it was the 70s, and as a result I was born under weight. So it was in the hospital that I had my first traumatic hair experience when only a few days old. Born with black curly hair, the doctors had to shave the sides of my head to reveal the veins in my temples. They were the only veins strong enough to insert feeding tubes. I was to small to leave the incubator.

Baby Cherry Lola

One year later my father, from Malawi, Africa, had to return to his birth country after his student visa ran out. I stayed with my mom and it was the two of us for a while, until my mom meet and married a great man, whom I call dad. His family lineage is from Malta, so my sister’s was too when she was born a year later. My hair as a child was generally in a little fro with bows in it or in two little pigtail puffs and was dry as a desert. My mother never knew what to do with my hair and I think she was afraid to ask. I can’t remember there being anyone around to ask anyways. My childhood was good, fun and a pretty much carefree but as adolescence approached things changed. I became aware of the fact that I didn’t look like the rest of my family around 9 when in the school yard a fellow classmate ask why I was brown when the rest of my family was white. I responded with such innocence. “I guess it just happens that way”

Cherry Lola and sister

Hair issues and hair problems inevitably followed. I was envious of my sister’s long flowing Mediterranean locks. So at 10, I went in for my first relaxer. I still remember it burning my scalp. I remember the stylist asking if it was burning and my response being “it’s okay” with tears in my eyes. Partly pretending, so I wouldn’t offend the stylist-part of me thought something was wrong. But part of me thought that the more it burns the straighter it would be. I returned the school and there was a fuss between the two grade 6 classes that everyone came out of their classrooms to see me when someone shouted “her hair is straight!” But of course relaxed hair doesn’t look like the pictures of the girls in the magazines, so disappointment unavoidably followed.

The products I used to maintain my pre-teen relaxed hair were so toxic that they made my skin breakout in huge purple blemishes along the hair line. They were so terrible that even the dermatologist suggested I try another hairstyle. At 11, I decided I wanted to have curly hair like a blond model in a magazine and so I head to the salon alone, picture in hand determined to get what I wanted. The stylist explained to me that I couldn’t have my hair like the model, but if I wanted to be curly I had to start all over again. I smiled and said okay- not fully understanding what she meant and still thinking that if it was even a little like the picture I would be happy. She sat me in a chair near the wash basins, no mirror in sight, and fussed with my head and then shampooed and condition. Then she walked me over to a styling chair . The reflection that greeted me was shocking. She had cut ALL of my hair off. It was within an inch of my skull. I didn’t understand. No one explained that this was what I had to do. I ran from the store, took the bus home and cried all the way.

My hair grew back pretty fast so by 13 it was around shoulder length and relaxed again. I had no idea how to maintain it. I was very athletic, basketball, volleyball, track and as a result of all the sport my hair was fuzzy and just swept back. The first year of high school I discover the curling iron. My signature style for that whole year was to pull back my hair in a bun except for two tendrils at the front which I curled and hairsprayed into ringlets every morning. I still wasn’t happy. TLC had come out with Crazy Sexy Cool and T-Boz made me green with envy with her straight platinum blond uber cool cut. I couldn’t look at Chilli without wanting her ultra long black hair. I feared my hair looked like Left Eyes. Mary J, Eve, Faith Evans and all the video girls plagued me until I realized something- yes a little late. It wasn’t their hair! It was a weave! But this time my mother put her foot down.

And then I saw Poetic Justice. Janet Jackson and Her Braids. It was like a revelation. I watch the film and the next day I was at the salon. I had a sore bottom after 8 hours of sitting, asthmatic lungs from breathing in the smoke from burning the ends, and slightly blacken fingers from rolling the melted yaki hair between my fingers to close the braids. But I had what I had wanted for so long. Hair down my back. Those first braids-oh how I swung them!

Cherry Lola Braids

It was a braided life high school was, almost exclusively, except for a dalliance with a curly weave in 11th grade. I wore that so long that my father (who never said a word about my hair) had to say- “your hair smells kinda funny”. Needless to say I didn’t do that again. Braids were the thing until I moved to Toronto after graduation and discovered for the first time in my life: A Good Salon. One that KNEW ABOUT BLACK HAIR. That explained that relaxers should be put on the scalp. that you should only do a little at time. You should never relax the hair twice. Etcetera . I found them online and their site was detailed with information. I book an appointment and enter the days of texturised hair.

(I will say here that if you are to use a relaxer- which is totally up to you, then google Jazma Hair salon and learn a little something about relaxers. No lye is actually no good.)

I came home that evening with my hair curly. I stood out on my balcony and felt the wind blow my hair around. I wore a wash and go for about a 3 months and then went back in for a touch up. This time they styled it straight. With a hot stove and a curling rod. I was shocked. It moved. I could run my fingers through it. It was shiny. I was ecstatic. Until the next day when I step out of the shower and although I hadn’t washed it the steam had made it fuzzy again. I thought “this sucks”. But I knew what I needed. I needed a hot stove at home! Off to the Black Hair Supply store, 200 bucks later, I had my very own hot stove and 2 different sized barrels. Plugged it in, heated it up, separated a piece of hair and immediately burnt off a large piece of my bangs.

I got better at it, but it took so long that most days I just wore my hair curly. I put blond streaks into it myself, using Jolen because I thought that was gentler. I rocked a semi fro until I went to school out West in Vancouver. Then I found a cheap salon and had girl straighten my hair once a week. I lost the curly pattern almost entirely because of the heat damage. I held out on texturiser touch ups for as long as I could. I used a store bought texturiser that i applied myself around the hair line and waited until I went home to visit the folks to have the rest of my head done. At least- I did for the first year. Then came I time where I couldn’t wait any longer and head to the cheap salon explained what she had to do and trusted she understood.

She didn’t. I am still not sure what happened. All I know is that my hair starting breaking off in huge clumps. Devastated, DEVASTATED I tell you. I swore off salons forever and tried to make do with what was left. Then I put braids in again – but they didn’t look stylish to me anymore. Then one day a girl with amazing looking hair walk into the store where I was working. I knew it wasn’t her real hair but I couldn’t tell what it was. So I asked her. “Interlocking” she said. She gave me the name of the stylist. I called her the next day.

6 years I wore this style. With hair that was black, brown, I even mixed it up with a little blond for a while but this time no one, absolutely NO ONE saw me with out the weave. I graduated with this hair, started my first job with this hair. Moved to other countries and still I had this fake hair. I was constantly told I had beautiful hair. People believed it was mine. I let them think it was. It was easier. But inside I felt like a fraud.

Blonde Interlocking

Black Interlocking

I live in London England now. I live with my incredibly supportive and loving partner. We live on an adorable street right, dead centre of the city. He was the first to bring up my hair when one day I took out the extensions preparing to get them done again the next day. He put his hands to my hair and said “I love your real hair. You should wear it like this.” I laughed because I thought he was kidding. But a seed was planted. Later that same year an apartment on my road came up for rent. A friend at work was looking for a place with her boyfriend and I knew she would love it. But I hesitated to tell her. Why? Because I thought to myself “What if she sees me heading to the salon without the extensions”
I was scared for her to see my real hair.

Then I thought : Something’s Wrong Here.

And there was. There is something very wrong with the idea that I should be ashamed of my hair.

So I started to contemplate taking out the extension. I started wondering why I felt the need to put them in. I thought about going back to the salon in Toronto on my next visit home. I though I would try to find a similar salon here in London. I thought to look on the web. I googled black hair London. And the search returned a video.

That was the beginning of a obsession with natural hair vids and journeys. I could feel the courage growing with every story, every blog every picture of natural hair. I vowed that in the new year I would discover what was underneath all this plastic on my head. Find out what the heck I’ve been hiding all these years.

And I did.

Which brings me here. To this blog. I made my first scissor cut into the extensions on youtube. Check out my first post on this blog if you missed it.

I hope this will be a stepping stone, a ripple in this revolution. This revelation. I hope my stories, postings, pics help you to go natural too.

Because you know what else I’ve discovered?

There is nothing to be ashamed of.

what is your hair story?

Just after extensions

Just After Taking out the extentsions

Cherry Lola after cut

After cutting about 4 inches off
After cut




A few hair memories

Natural African American 3c 4a hair
Image Source

Today on the tube I was reminded of two hair memories of a time when I was much younger. Moments of envy to be honest and I still carry them with me today.

The first one was when I was about 13 years old. I was shopping in the Eaton Centre in Toronto with my mother. It was one of the few times I got to go to the “big city” growing up in the suburbs as I did. After exploring the department store for sweaters and jeans for the new year at school we headed to the cashier. Who was a woman (a woman in my mind but now i think she was only about 19) with beautiful 3c mixed with 4a hair that reach her waist. This beautiful girl was something I had never seen in real life before. Someone who looked like me and had hair like me and it was long and she was beautiful. I just stared. I stared for so long that my mom laughed and said to the girl ” Don’t mind her- she loves you hair.” Oh the texture of her hair! It wasn’t perfect ringlets all gelled together. It didn’t really shine. It was curly and puffy and fuzzy, different lengths and shapes- it didn’t matter- it was something to behold.

The second is more recent and probably contributed to my first search on the internet. Again I was on the tube and sat across from me was one of the most beautiful Afro Caribbean teenagers I had ever seen. She look like she was on her way to an audition. Now if you have ever been to London you must know that it is a major faux pa to actually look at anyone on the tube. Eye contact must be avoided at all cost. So i spent the ride glancing at her trying to take her in. Rich black 4a 4b hair that must hay reached her waist when pulled straight. It framed her head like a lions mane. Again I had never seen this-certainly never in London- that’s why it caught me so off guard. I was envious.

I was reminded of these women today because I came across someone who was a far from these women as possible. A woman about 50 with a weave that was way out worn, strawberry blonde, stick straight and a fake-looking as can be. And a sadness came over me. And in my mind again rose the same question. WHY?

Looking back I realise now that it wasn’t the hair- well it wasn’t just the hair that was breathtaking. It was that feeling these women exuded.. The quality and tone of their beings. They had made over the hump. Climbed over the wall that most off use grapple with. The idea that there is something wrong with what grew out of their heads was an idea that just didn’t ring true. And because of this their truth wafted through the air. Peace. Acceptance. Pride.

What a thing to strive for.

do you have any hair memories that you have carried with you?




Natural Hair Review : Lush’s Cynthia Sylvia Stout Shampoo

Cynthia Sylvia Stout By Lush

Ingredients :Stout (Beer), Water (Aqua), Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Fine Sea Salt, Lauryl Betaine, Propylene Glycol, Fresh Organic Lemon Juice (Citrus limonum), Cognac Oil (Vitis vinifera), Lemongrass Oil (Cymbopogon schoenanthus), Yeast, Balsamic Vinegar, *Citral, *Geraniol, Perfume, Methylparaben

I think that this will be the last time I review a shampoo with a sulfate in it. I chose this bottle at Lush because it promised to give some weight to the hair and because the first ingredient was BEER. Beer has be known to add a lot of shine to the hair. At least others have claimed so. I used this shampoo after a few days or serious overuse of product in attempt to remove all the “gunk”. Which it did. Weight to the hair? Yes- it did that a little bit too. But mostly it left my hair feeling so dry and looking so frizzy that I am now truly convinced about the curly girl method. No POO!

The journey continues.




Natural Hair Review : Lush Henna Fluff Ease

 Lush Jasmin and Henna Fluff Ease

Lush Jasmin and Henna Fluff Ease


Ingredients: Red Henna Infusion (Lawsonia inermis), Water (Aqua), Cetearyl Alcohol (&)Sodium Lauryl Sulfate , Extra Virgin Olive Oil (Olea europaea), Benzyl Alcohol, Ylang Ylang Oil (Cananga odorata), Jasmine Absolute (Jasminum officinale), Wheatgerm Oil (Triticum vulgare), Organic Jojoba Oil (Simmondsia chinensis), Almond Oil (Prunus dulcis), Brazil Nut Oil (Bertholletia excelsa), Extra Virgin Coconut Oil (Cocos nucifera), Organic Hemp Oil (Cannabis sativa), Soya Oil (Glycine soja), Castor Oil (Ricinus communis), Benzyl Salicylate, Benzyl Benzoate, Farnesol, Geraniol, Linalool, Hydroxycitronellal, Benzyl Alcohol, Isoeugenol, Perfume, Methylparaben, Propylparaben

Well what can I say. I really really want to like Lush. They are a ethical company, their shops are vibrant and fun and they try to be fair trade and earth friendly wherever possible. I loved the concept of this product. Henna, Jojoba, Hemp, Sweet Almond- it all sounds so good- Except there is Sodium Lauryl Sulfate and the parabens it. And the smell! The reviews! Wait – SLS and parabens? What’s going on here…?

Lets talk about SLS for a moment. We’ll save parabens for another time.

What Lush says about SLS :

Sodium lauryl sulfate is a surface active agent or surfactant. All surfactants are partly water-soluble and partly oil-soluble. It is this quality that allows oil and water, which normally don’t mix together, to become dispersed.

Used at above minimum concentration, the surfactant molecules become organised in a structure that can trap oil-based dirt from hair, which allows the dirt to be rinsed away. Foam is not responsible for removing dirt but it allows the hands to work the product through hair or across skin. This helps the mechanical removal of dirt.
urfactants like sodium lauryl sulfate replaced the oldest surfactant, which is soap. They cleanse hair in a modern way that we like – leaving it fresh, clean and with great shine.

Soap will get hair clean, but its alkalinity tends to cause roughening of the cuticles on the hair follicle, leading to a tangled and dull appearance.

Sodium lauryl sulfate gives a thick rich foam and cleanses the hair leaving it feeling very clean. Its thorough action effectively dissolves dirt and grease.

We have used sodium lauryl sulfate in our hair care products and soaps for thirty years. It is available in many forms: as a liquid, paste and as a solid.

Lorraine Massey- the Curly hair guru behind The Curly Girl Method insists that ammonium laureth sulfate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, are harsh, drying sulfates that are extremely damaging for curly hair. They make curly hair frizzy and uncooperative. To quote:

“You’d never dream of washing a good sweater with detergent. Yet most shampoos contain harsh detergents (sodium lauryl sulfate or laureth sulfate) that one finds in dish washing liquid. They’re great for pots and pans because they cut grease so effectively. Your hair on the other hand, needs to retain some natural oils, which protect your hair and scalp. Stripping them away deprives the hair of necessary moisture and amino acids and makes it look dry and dull.” (LM)

Personally I have a problem with SLS and many other surfants on my skin- If a face wash has SLS or any other sulfates in it I immediately get an out break of eczema on my face. I has use pure soap for the last year and 1/2 and have found it helps keep it under control.

So you would think I would opt not to use the Jasmin and henna fluff ease- but it cost nearly £10 so I decided to go ahead and try it anyways. The instructions say to use it as a pre-poo for 20 minutes and then shampoo it out then follow with conditioner. (Which, if you follow with a Lush Shampoo that also contains SLS- doesn’t that sort of defeat the purpose of all those oils?)
Prepooing with Jasmin and Henna Fluff Ease

The Result- I’m surprised. I am surprised that a product can make my hair look greasy and feel dry at the same time. I decided to do a twist out and head to bed. I awoke with not so much as a twist out as a greasy fuzzy mess. I had to resort to twirling the curls with a little gel to get some definition.

This product was definitely not for me. It did smell good though.

2/10 -because of the great smell.




A review of… Faith in Nature
Natural hair test | Jojoba Shampoo by Faith in Nature

Natural hair test | Jojoba Shampoo by Faith in Nature

ingredients: Aqua (Water from the Lake District), Cetearyl alcohol (Coconut based wax), Cetrimonium chloride (vegetable based conditioning agent), Brassica oleifera, Citrus aurantium (Orange Oil), Panthenol (Provitamin B5), Buxus chinensis (Jojoba oil), Cananga odorata (Ylang ylang oil), Melaleuca alternifolia, Ascophyllum nodosum (organic seaweed extract), Limonene, Linalool, Benzyl Benzoate, Benzyl Salicylate

Faith in Nature is run by the mixtress Rona Rose. She started 30 years ago in her kitchen with the intention of creating additive free products. She did.

I found her products in Fresh and Wild in London before I even started this natural hair journey. So I had her in my shower when i first took out the extensions
I used this for washing my hair with conditioner- also know as a co-wash. INSTEAD of shampoo- if you’re a curly girl you know what I mean. And for that purpose I liked this product. It wasn’t that expensive (£4) although i might be a little much for something that goes down the drain. It smells great but is definitely on the thin side. And of course as with most things these products are not created with afro or mixed hair in mind though.
Over all I would give it 5.5/10. If I were in a pinch I would grab it again.

I followed this product with Pantene Intensive Mask which I review below.




And then there was light

Pantene Breakage Defense Mask

I finally did it. After months of lurking on sites like the fabulous naturallycurly.com and the equally great yet more hard- line nappturality.com I felt armed with enough knowledge to put scissors to extensions for the last time. I had spent half an hour in the local Boots inspecting every hair conditioner and cream for the right ingredients: no sodium lareth sulfates, no parabens, only the removeable silicone if any at all… Let me tell you – this is not an easy task at Boots- you would think but no… these kind of products are few and far between. I finally landed on Pantene Pro- V Restoratives Breakage Defense Intensive Mask.

At home, scissors in hand I chopped of the plastic hair and unraveled the braids underneath and looked at my hair – really looked at it for the first time. It was a dark brown, and a tiny bit gray and nearly to my shoulder. I hopped in the shower and co-washed with Faith in Nature Jojoba Conditioner (which I’ll review in my next post) and the add the Pantene Mask. My initially reaction was of . It was slippery and thick and smelled nice. It defined my curls into stretched out clumps

Pantene Pro V Breakage Mask

Pantene Pro V Breakage Mask

So I let it dry

( OMG the Shrinkage)

Natural hair Dry

I got ready to do my first Youtube update, i was so excited- I had my natural hair out and the world didn’t end- Then I looked over the ingredients list again and there at the end of the list I saw something that made my heart sink. SODIUM HYDROXIDE.

Now that can’t be good – can it?

I didn’t know why it was there and what purpose it served. I decided it was research time. What the heck is lye- what is it doing in my conditioner?

I went directly to the source. I called Procter and Gamble and just asked.

Sodium Hydroxide is listed on our product. It is added in minor amounts to the formulation for PH adjustment, this material does not occur in the final product but becomes a salt which is considered harmless. The EU Cosmetic Directive requires us to label all materials added to the product, which is why Sodium Hydroxide is listed and not the respective salt.

Sodium Hydroxide

PH Adjustment? I need to know more. I discovered

Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH): Also known simply as caustic, this is the most widely used alkaline neutralizing chemical in use in industry today. Sodium hydroxide is easy to handle, inexpensive and very effective for the neutralization of strong or weak acids. NaOH is available in concentrations of up to 50%, which is the most commonly used concentration.

source

Which sounds like a good thing- doesn’t it?

Turns out lye is used for all sorts of things “ph” including making the oldest kind of soap – bar soap in a process called saponification which is also used in my favorite body soap- castile soap. SO where did all the bad press come from?

I came upon 2 enlightening blurbs
One on soap:

For centuries, people have been making their own soaps. Some people just do it for recreation or fun. With just a little chemistry know how, you can make a quality soap tailored to your specific tastes. The process does involve the use of the caustic alkaline substance ‘lye’ and so shouldn’t be done without first learning the proper procedures. If the wrong proportions are used, there can be an excess of the alkali in the resulting soap, and it can be irritating or even damaging to your skin.

It in east, nobody understood the chemical process involved in making soaps. The scenario was worse in the case of hand made soaps. This has made hand made soaps unpopular and have given it a bad impression of being “harsh”. For years, the chemical process of soap making was poorly understood, and handmade soaps were often out of proportion in this way. Handmade soaps have therefore gotten a bad reputation for being especially harsh, or high in lye. are often referred to as “Lye Soaps”. If we have a clear understanding of the process, all the lye is converted to glycerin and soap.

and
one on relaxers:

The shape of hair is partly controlled by chemical bridges, called disulfide bonds, that connect protein fibrils together. Because these bonds are so strong, a powerful chemical reaction is required to break them apart before the hair can be straightened. This reaction requires a very high pH. For those of you who fell asleep during chemistry class, pH is a measure of how acidic or basic a substance it. The pH scale runs from 1 to 14. Chemicals with a very low pH value (around 1 to 3) are very acidic and can be damaging to hair and skin. Chemicals with very high pH (10 to 14) are very basic and can also be damaging.
Relaxers must have a very high pH (11 or above) in order to work. Unfortunately, this pH can also weaken your hair and damage your scalp. Historically, relaxers used a chemical called sodium hydroxide (also known as “lye”) to create such a high pH. Over time, chemists found similar chemicals like calcium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, ammonium thioglycolate, and guanidine carbonate which basically do the same thing. Relaxers based on these chemicals are called “no lye” because they don’t contain sodium hydroxide. But they still expose your hair and scalp to very high, potentially damaging pH.

things that make you go hmmmm….

That plus an abundance of info I read over the course of the week I’ve come to the conclusion that it is mostly about MARKETING.
And I’m okay with it being in my Pantene. Now I’m just curious about the other ingredients.




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About

  • Cherry Lola went Natural Jan 2 2009. She has lived in London England since 2006, but is a Canadian through and through. Follow the journey or better yet share your story with her by emailing hi@cherrylola.com

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